Russ Jones
Christian Press
http://www.crosswalk.com/news/religiontoday/11635895/page0/
I could feel the Palestinian-Israeli tensions when our bus reached a checkpoint leading into Bethlehem. It was a daunting scene, considering it was the birthplace of the Messiah, the Prince of Peace.
Weeks ago I accepted an invitation from the US Agency for International Development (USAID) to join a press group of primarily liberal Christian journalists to the West Bank. This is the same area known as Judea and Samaria in the Bible. I am strong supporter of Israel and evangelical Christian journalist, but I imagined I would hear a very different story on this trip. Bethlehem
As the bus continued into Bethlehem, reality quickly replaced my thoughts of a lowly stable, Three Wise men and the Star of Bethlehem. Trash and debris swirled at the base of a 25-foot separation barrier topped with razor-thin barbed wire. The Israeli government began building the wall in 2002, and plans call for the wall to run some 436 miles through Palestinian territories.
The Israeli government contends it has a right and a duty to protect itself from the threat of terror attacks. With the Wall about 60 percent complete, reports indicate attacks have declined by more than 90 percent.
Palestinians, on the other hand, say the wall creates many hardships. They have difficulty going to their fields and marketing their produce in other areas of the West Bank - thus driving many families into poverty. They also contend the Wall and tough permit restrictions stifle Palestinians' easy access to health care facilities.
When we stopped at the gate, two Israeli soldiers entered our bus carrying machine guns. The soldiers slowly walked down the aisle checking our passports. On this day we easily passed through the checkpoint. Two days later our experience wasn't so smooth - we were turned away because one of our guides didn't have proper paperwork.
As we drove through the gates, I saw that anti-Israel graffiti mostly covered the Palestinian side of the wall. Writing on the wall has become a form of protest. A group of Palestinian graffiti artists in the West Bank is even taking online orders to spray-paint personal messages on the wall.
Nazareth
Our journey into Nazareth, the boyhood home of Jesus, gave fresh evidence of the tension between the area's religious groups.
Excited to explore this town, I began the gradual climb through the town on the road leading to the Basilica of the Annunciation. The basilica incorporates the cave where the Virgin Mary received the news from Gabriel that she would give birth to Jesus.
As we hiked up the road, we saw a large, confrontational banner proclaiming ‘Allah has no son' in English and Arabic. The banner stretches between two palm trees and is mounted just before the entrance of the Basilica. It reads, "In the name of Allah, the most beneficent, the most merciful, Say (O Muhammad): He is Allah, (the) One and Only. Allah, the Eternal, the Absolute. He begetteth not, nor was begotten, and there is none like unto him." (Sura 112:1-4)
Stunned and grieved, I watched as my fellow journalists, most of them Catholic, barely stopped to note the scene. I couldn't believe Muslims so openly challenged and mocked a faith so deeply entrenched in this land's story.
These are the political and religious divides Muslims, Jews and Christians face when traveling in the West Bank. It is certainly true for those who serve with Jubilee Humanitarian Aid.
Called to Serve
Beyond the biblical sites are many opportunities to serve. On our last day my wife and I joined Jubilee team members for a day of service in a village near Bethlehem. I organized this trip separate from the USAID itinerary.
Jubilee is an approved Agency by the State of Israel and is officially recognized as an official NGO by Palestinian Authorities and has the authority to operate in the Holy Land. The approval from the Palestinian Authorities allows the organization to go into villages, towns and refugee camps within the West Bank.
Gregory and Jane Kuske, founders of Jubilee Humanitarian Aid, moved from California over six years ago and now base their operation in Jerusalem. They primarily provide health and nutrition education, as well as teach English in villages just outside Bethlehem.
Jane Kuske provides massage therapy to many of the female villagers using a USAID facility. Kuske says while the checkpoints can be a hassle, once she gets there it is well worth it. Over time she has earned trust from the villagers and they have begun to open up.
"For some of these women it is the only healthy touch they receive," said Kuske. "They rush to stand in line waiting for their massage. As the burqas come off their defenses break down and they begin to share their hearts."
A Gracious Spirit
Also working to bridge the divide is Annie, who comes from an Arab-Armenian background and speaks Hebrew and Arabic. She exemplifies the gracious spirit both Palestinians and Israelis would do well to hear.
"Sometimes my heart just breaks when I hear Palestinians tearing down Israelis or the other way around," Annie said. "When I'm in the village and hear that kind of talk I remind them that there are people on both sides who love them and care for them."
Annie says most aren't used to hearing a more compassionate perspective on the conflict.
During a recent phone conversation, Eric and Paula Axley who serve with Jubilee, shared how that expression of compassion was demonstrated when Jubilee's work van was broken into. Fondly named "Angel," the old VW van has seen better days - so further damage just might be too much for that vehicle to handle.
Jane declined to have the village mayor discipline the boyish culprits. Instead, while villagers continued to look on - Jane conducted ‘Sunday School' in the middle of the street with Annie translating at her side.
Working in a region which looks down on proselytizing, Eric says the team is sensitive to cultural and religious boundaries. Natural teaching moments, however, occasionally present themselves.
"You've confessed to me and God says we are to forgive those who try to hurt us," Jane said to three young boys. "In my faith of Christianity we just call what you said a ‘confession.'" She then recalled Luke 6:31 teaching the boys, "Do to others as you would have them do to you."
Parting Thoughts
I found the Palestinians to be hospitable and welcoming. They were also anxious to share their perspectives on the conflict. One Palestinian vender near the Mount of Olives said, "We don't hate the Jews - we just want our share of the land."
This was my third pilgrimage to the Holy Land where our spirits come alive. The trip was first experience, however, observing through the ‘Arab lens.' My wife, Jackie, and I were privileged to travel together on this particular trip, yet the brashness and contrary views had taken its toll. We were ready to come home.
Annie's words filled our spirits just when we needed it - reminding us why we love the Holy Land and why we look forward to returning to that treasured land again.
"We go to the villages and love on people," Annie contends. "We don't talk politics. We just love and serve."
Russ Jones is an award winning journalist and co-publisher of Christian Press Newspaper (ChristianPress.com) and CEO of BIG Picture Media Group, Inc., a boutique media firm located in Newton, Kansas. Jones holds degrees from the University of Missouri and St. Paul School of Theology. As a former NBC TV reporter he enjoys reporting where evangelical Christian faith and news of the day intersect. Jones is also a freelance reporter for the Christian Broadcasting Network, the Total Living Network, Travel with Spirit and American Family Radio Network. He may be reached at russ@christianpress.com.
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